Ordered some stuff!

formulax · **Posted:** Wed Jul 27, 2016 4:41 pm

Thanks. I wanted it to be a non permanent enclosure. MDF, IMO is the best material for a sub outside of fiberglass. I assume your statement is in regards to the MDF being in a marine environment? I am freshwater only and boat is garage kept. Enclosure will be in a dry storage area. I will be coating it with spray on bed liner when I am done. If it does not last I can always redo but I've never had an issue with MDF boxes in the past.

Wylie_Tunes · **Joined:** Mon Oct 01, 2012 10:21 am **Posts:** 176

Properly sealed and installed, a wood enclosure can last many years, whether its MDF or plywood. However, I would suggest using MDO or a high quality void free multi layer ply over the cheap knotty stuff. Both are acoustically suited for woofer enclosures. Again, its all in the prep and execution.

deafwish · **Posted:** Wed Jul 27, 2016 9:04 pm

Points taken, fellas. :wink:

Keep the install photos coming!

formulax · **Posted:** Thu Jul 28, 2016 7:29 pm

I used the rubber gasket from the stock deck as a template to cut out a trim ring out of plexy. I'll paint it white and it will be mounted directly to the deck. Then it will mount to the boat with the same screw holes the original Clarion was mounted with.

Not sure why it looks like my deck is cracked here...

Wylie_Tunes · **Joined:** Mon Oct 01, 2012 10:21 am **Posts:** 176

Another option is to use .125" white HDPE.

Deleted a clarion CMD all together.

formulax · **Posted:** Thu Jul 28, 2016 7:49 pm

I was looking for something white but could not find anything at the local hardware store. If this does not work out I will give it a search. I'm not sure if that will work or not since you can still see through it some. I don't want to be able to see the mounting brackets that will be on the back side.

Wylie_Tunes · **Joined:** Mon Oct 01, 2012 10:21 am **Posts:** 176

The flash from camera makes the contrast of the dark locker behind such a large hole, greater.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/2315158188 ... noapp=true

formulax · **Posted:** Thu Aug 04, 2016 10:19 am

I finally got everything finished up (sort of) last night about 1am. With kid stuff every evening I've been working late this past weekend and all week so far to get things ready for a trip this weekend. The boat looks like a tornado went through it, tools trash and wire clippings everywhere haha. I still need to go back through and clean up the wires but my main goal was to get the boat back working in time for this weekend. It was a lot of work fishing all the wire. I also moved batteries to the port side of the boat. We have been 100+ all week here in Oklahoma so that has made the garage a wonderful place to work :roll:

I ordered the wrong length of cable for my starter to switch cable so my switch won't reach the mounting location. I'll have to replace that when I get back.

Luckily everything worked on the first try. Stereo sounds awesome, especially compared to what it replaced. Bluetooth straight to the head unit is nice.

I'll post some pictures at some point soon.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Thu Aug 04, 2016 2:05 pm

coming along

formulax · **Posted:** Thu Aug 04, 2016 2:14 pm

When I tested last night I had the subwoofer box just sitting on the bow seat. On my lunch I went out and moved it down into the storage compartment behind the helm. WOW. The "room gain" just from moving it into that enclosure made a huge difference. Last night the bass was pretty tame in the cockpit, now you can feel it throughout the whole boat. It sounds better than I thought it would being in a completely open air environment compared to an enclosed environment like a car. I'm definitely glad I went with the sealed enclosure instead on an infinite baffle setup. I have a friend with a JL IB sub in his boat and I can say this blows it away.

Jdpber · **Posted:** Thu Aug 04, 2016 2:48 pm

you created what is called a Bandpass Box. this is when you mount a subwoofer inside of a ported box. AKA your storage compartment. Your result is a compression of air on 2 sides and it produces a nice sound. These boxes are not as common in cars as they take up twice the amount of space.

rchamberlin · **Posted:** Fri Aug 05, 2016 8:08 am

It looks like your deck is the KMR-M315BT?

I've been looking at the KMR-M312BT. The reviews all say it's near impossible to see the display in the sunlight. How is yours?

formulax · **Posted:** Sun Aug 07, 2016 9:05 pm

rchamberlin wrote:

It looks like your deck is the KMR-M315BT?

I've been looking at the KMR-M312BT. The reviews all say it's near impossible to see the display in the sunlight. How is yours?

I've not really got to test it very much, but it did seem a little hard to view. Figure anything LCD is going to be hard to see in bright sun.

formulax · **Posted:** Sun Aug 07, 2016 9:11 pm

So I spent all that time getting everything ready for our trip this weekend... on the way to the lake we got in a rain storm. Got to the lake and opened up the storage where the amp was and noticed the amp has water on it. I dried it off whit a towel and tried the radio and it the amp goes straight into protection mode. :evil:

Back from the trip now and the amp still goes into protection. I've removed all the speaker wires and RCAs with no luck. We never got to even listen to the radio the whole trip. Amp is "Marine Certified" from Polk, and was in the factory location for amps in these boats. Even on polk's website they say it can get wet, not submerged, but wet. I'll be calling Polk on Monday to see what I can do to get a new amp.

Wylie_Tunes · **Joined:** Mon Oct 01, 2012 10:21 am **Posts:** 176

Sorry to hear.

Sadly, even a marine amp may not survive direct water, especially if it is on or has voltage to the main power terminals. Is your amp wired battery direct or through the battery switch, which would hopefully be off? To do any good, you would need to open the amp up and dry it out inside, prior to putting any voltage to it.

www.iFourWinns.com

Ordered some stuff!

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